Bias Cut and a FBA

This gorgeous blouse can be tricky if an FBA is required.  Thanks to Andrea, she's sharing her tips for pattern fitting success!

Abstract prints and detailed design elements have always been and still are totally my style.  Most any print has always had a place in my heart, but abstract and geometric fabric designs take first place.

The fabric is Cadet Blue/Pacific Blue/White Abstract Print Rayon Crepe, a very lightweight Rayon Crepe, slightly sheer and airy with terrific drape.

Considering I chose a pattern (McCalls 7579) with an extreme number of bias seams, my normal propensity to quickly roll this out, was thwarted by the need to sew carefully and attentively through every "bias" seam. The results turned out much better than I expected. 

Construction Details

I had to test quite a few seam finishes before I settled on the overlock, with a differential feed for control. It didn’t cause any adverse effects with the hang and flexibility of all the intersecting bias seams. Before I finished with the overlock, I did sew a basting stitch on my industrial sewing machine in order to stabilize the seams. You would be well advised to use a walking foot on the home machine to control the bias.

Pressing and interfacing: I did not use interfacing anywhere on the garment because I did not want to stiffen or increase the thickness, which would have interfered with the drape. The neck and arm band needed no interfacing because the pattern used two bias strips folded over then sewn.

Fitting and pattern manipulation details: To make the top fit just a tad closer to my body with less ease, I folded and tucked the pattern pieces in every area possible after putting the tissue pattern together.  I was able to see exactly where I could decrease the amount of ease, create a sway back adjustment, remove volume, and add an FBA using the seams, instead of cutting and slashing.  I lengthened the left side and shorted the right side drape as well as curved the side seams dramatically.  Here is a video with many more details of my pattern alterations process.

All-in-all this pattern and the fabric gave me just the challenge I needed.  I think the next item will certainly be one with less details and definitely no bias seams!