Thursday, July 26, 2018

Burda Style August 2018

To purchase, go to
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All styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

 80s inspired wrap dress-big trend for fall 2018!

Great jacket for cool mornings in early fall.
Jacket #111B-Rose Lassoed Flowers

Weekend Glam!
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Consider a metal separating zipper instead of hooks and eyes for this fabulous jacket!
Jacket #117-Amethyst/Lavender Cotton Tweed

Plus Size
Classic blouse with updated sleeves.
Blouse #123A-Silk Charmeuse-Amethyst

The diagonal darts give the classic standby sheath dress a fresh look.
Dress #125-Graphite Grey Ponte Knit

Thursday, July 19, 2018

Bias Cut and a FBA

This gorgeous blouse can be tricky if an FBA is required.  Thanks to Andrea, she's sharing her tips for pattern fitting success!

Abstract prints and detailed design elements have always been and still are totally my style.  Most any print has always had a place in my heart, but abstract and geometric fabric designs take first place.

The fabric is Cadet Blue/Pacific Blue/White Abstract Print Rayon Crepe, a very lightweight Rayon Crepe, slightly sheer and airy with terrific drape.

Considering I chose a pattern (McCalls 7579) with an extreme number of bias seams, my normal propensity to quickly roll this out, was thwarted by the need to sew carefully and attentively through every "bias" seam. The results turned out much better than I expected. 

Construction Details
I had to test quite a few seam finishes before I settled on the overlock, with a differential feed for control. It didn’t cause any adverse effects with the hang and flexibility of all the intersecting bias seams. Before I finished with the overlock, I did sew a basting stitch on my industrial sewing machine in order to stabilize the seams. You would be well advised to use a walking foot on the home machine to control the bias.

Pressing and interfacing: I did not use interfacing anywhere on the garment because I did not want to stiffen or increase the thickness, which would have interfered with the drape. The neck and arm band needed no interfacing because the pattern used two bias strips folded over then sewn.

Fitting and pattern manipulation details: To make the top fit just a tad closer to my body with less ease, I folded and tucked the pattern pieces in every area possible after putting the tissue pattern together.  I was able to see exactly where I could decrease the amount of ease, create a sway back adjustment, remove volume, and add an FBA using the seams, instead of cutting and slashing.  I lengthened the left side and shorted the right side drape as well as curved the side seams dramatically.  Here is a video with many more details of my pattern alterations process.

All-in-all this pattern and the fabric gave me just the challenge I needed.  I think the next item will certainly be one with less details and definitely no bias seams!

Thursday, July 12, 2018

Summer Comfort

We’re in the dog days of summer and cute tops are what you need to get you through in style!  Dorcas has made just such a top that is light and fun and great to wear on those blistering hot days.  Thanks Dorcas!!

This halter top is Pattern #105 from the new July issue of BurdaStyle and this floral print viscose poplin from Sew Much Fabric is the perfect fabric for it! This pattern needs a lightweight, drapey fabric to show off the pleated detail on the bodice and the poplin fills the bill. 

Here is a line drawing for a better look:

I left off the ties and lengthened mine 2" but otherwise made no changes to the pattern. I will tell you that the side zip is not necessary. The cut-in shoulder style and deep V in front lets this top easily go over your head. Skip the zip!

I'm wearing my top with Grainline Studios Maritime shorts made from black double cloth linen (Sold Out--but you can view other linens here) that I got from Sew Much Fabric several years ago. Love that stuff!

Personally, I think my halter top is every bit as cute as the one in the magazine!

Maybe even cuter!

Thursday, July 05, 2018

Island Vibes

Andrea, from Sew To Fit, is caliente in her new two piece ensemble.  She used Teal Green Tropical Print Viscose Poplin with Vogue 9319 for the top and McCalls 7692 for the pants.  I'm seeing a lot of salsa dancing for Andrea in the very near future!  Thanks Andrea!

What you are looking at is a culmination of two patterns and one wonderful fabric working in tandem to bring my inspiration outfit together.  First the fabric, since I am a die hard fan of all things Sew Much Fabric, is the Rayon Poplin in a Teal Green Tropical Print, 100% Viscose.  It seems every fabric she sources, just has to end up on my cutting table!!  The drape....ooooh the drape!  So, let's talk patterns.


The palazzo pants, McCalls 7692, is an exact Nicole Miller design which was my TRUE inspiration.  I really, really wanted the shirt to match but that will have to be with a smaller print.  This large scale tropical print just would not have translated into this look for me.  

This is a V-neck top from Vogue 9319, a Very Easy pattern.  I much prefer the top with the long sleeves but this cute flutter sleeve sold me.  Some major pattern re-designing aka "hacking" had to be done for "my" kind of modesty. 

Pattern Designing: 
I redrew the front based on my personal "shirt/blouse" block, which is not the same as a regular "bodice" block or to some, the sloper.  After overlaying this Vogue pattern to get the main details, I then used my personal shirt block for the back.  The sleeve had to be modified to fit into my shirt block which saved me from needing to completely make a new sleeve.  

I am extremely happy with the outcome and totally intend to make many more tops like this based on my own block.  I can now play paper dolls with my basic shirt block beyond the norm.  This crop top has now been added to my pattern rotation of favorites.

Who's ready for some salsa!!!