Thursday, October 12, 2017

A Little Grey Jacket

Jackets are a great completer piece.  Throw one on and you instantly upgrade your look.  Kasey made a classic style jacket in the trending color grey.  This jacket will serve her well for years to come!  Thanks Kasey!  You can follow Kasey and all of her embroidery work at Kasey Sasser Embroidery and Gifts.

It doesn’t quite feel like fall yet but I’m ready for it this year with a great new topper in a ponté knit from Sew Much Fabric. This 16 oz. knit will stretch if you need it to, but is stable enough to be used like a woven. This knit comes in fabulous fall colors and is the perfect weight for this topper – which is the perfect little everywhere jacket for our weather here in Houston.
This knit is great to work with – washes well, irons and steams like a dream and sews really easily. I used a #90 ballpoint needle and lengthened my stitch from 2.4 to 2.8 for construction seams, and used a 4mm stitch length for topstitching; the knit is very spongy and the stitches will sink in if you don’t lengthen it. And with a 60” width you’ll barely need two yards for even the largest size.
The pattern 8464 is a vintage re-release by Simplicity for their new fall line. It looked like a fun, quick make, and it didn’t disappoint; a kimono-sleeve top with two simple darts for shaping, 7/8 length sleeve and the perfect hip length – not even any closures to put in! Aside from the tiny bit of hand stitching around the sleeves and to close the lining, I think cutting and construction was all of two hours… pretty good!
For the ladies out there worried about doing an FBA on a kimono top – don’t! This pattern is designed (in the larger size set) with 10 inches of ease at the bust. Besides which you’ll have plenty to borrow from the kimono armhole area – my busty sister-sewers, this topper is great for us! I did go up two sizes and added three inches to the sleeve width, but after constructing this and putting it on, I don’t think going up the two sizes was needed (maybe just one?) But, I will be wearing this over long sleeves and light weight sweaters this fall and winter so the extra room won’t be bad. Do note, the length of the shoulder bust dart needs to be altered to match where your bust falls. In my case I lengthened the dart by 2 1/8 inches.

The lining was an old mistake from years ago – I ordered a stretch silk charmeuse when I needed a regular. But it’s finally been used as a hidden pop of color. I tell you nothing is more cuddly and luxurious than a charmeuse lining! It will also slide right over whatever top you’re wearing. And of course what lining is complete without embroidery? This particular design is the gilded peacock by Urban Threads (available for application to any project by me!) I didn’t sew the darts into the lining, I just folded the extra fabric as a pleat; I think this lets the lining move better under the jacket.


And the finishing touch of course was buttons for the false back placket – an understated but lovely gold button also from Sew Much Fabric (Roz has the best buttons!) This jacket seems a little big in the back, but the placket serves to control the extra width and give a better fit.


This pattern lends itself to so many kinds of embellishment – bold topstitching, soutache or braids, shaped pockets – and of course you can add a button or hook closure if you’d like. I myself chose a simple patch pocket as I did not want the flap in the original design, but it could be an interesting focal point with the right embellishment.


Another great idea for this pattern is to use a brocade for an evening jacket, perfect for the upcoming holiday season. I personally am eyeing the black metallic jacquard with a lining in teal charmeuse, but the orchid Lurex with aubergine satin would be terrific combo as well. But don’t stop there! The ruby or sea grey wool or heather flannel would also be great choices for this pattern. I see at least two more of these quick and easy jackets in my future!

1 comment:

Jodi O said...

Beautiful Jacket. Great write up. Thank you for sharing!