Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Haute Summer Sewing – Silk Blouse McCalls 7324

I love the many options a silk blouse offers!  Eileen did a beautiful job constructing this blouse.  She used McCalls 7324 and a silk crepe de chine now sold out.  Other options are here, here, here, and here. Thank you Eileen!! 

McCalls 7324 

This blouse from McCalls 7324 View B is a great summer addition to any wardrobe. The pattern is a very loose-fitting pullover top (close-fitting through bust) with front and back gathered into neck band, front band, forward shoulder seams, front pleat, a hi low hemline, and narrow hem.  The pattern is easy to fit and the two-piece sleeve means no sleeve placket to sew!  

The fabric used is silk crepe de chine designed by Nanette Lepore (sold out) from Sew Much Fabric.  The fabric can be hand washed in cool water and a mild soap.   Air dry and use a silk setting to press.  Silk weight fusible interfacing was used on the placket, collar and cuffs.  

I love couture sewing techniques because they combine form and function in a garment.  French seams were used as well as a narrow machine hem.   Covered buttons using the techniques shared by Cynthia Mitchell were used matching the pattern of the silk on the cuff.  

Join me at our October 3, 2016 meeting and I will be sharing the French seam and narrow machine hem sewing techniques.  

This blouse dresses up or down for work or play.  A second blouse is on the cutting table using another silk crepe de chine from Sew Much Fabric.  I hope to have it finished to share at our October meeting.  

Thursday, July 21, 2016

Burda Style 8/2016

To purchase, go to
(Sold Out)

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

Burda Style calls this Lady-Like meets Rockabilly.
(Sold Out)

The fabric combinations are endless!
(Sold Out)

Wardrobe Planning for Fall
Jacket #114-Pearl/Onyx Boucle'
(Sold Out)

Wear now and later with the jacket featured above.
Dress #124A-White Ponte Knit

Plus Size
Love the waistline definition!
Dress #131-Black Stretch Wool Crepe 

Weekend Glam
Jacket #134-Black/White Multi Tweed
(Sold Out)
Pants #136-Inkwell Stretch Denim

Monday, July 18, 2016

Color Blocking Vogue 8944

Color blocking is a beautiful way to highlight the style lines in a dress.  Carla used Cranberry/Charcoal Grey Reversible Knit (Sold Out) and did a lovely job selecting where to "change colors".  Thank you Carla-I know your daughter loves this dress!

I made the sleeveless version of Vogue 8944 with Roz’s reversible knit.  
Vogue 8944  

I chose not to line it as called for in the pattern.   Instead, I stabilized the shoulders and the waistline with a fusible hem tape.

 I used a traditional binding application (as taught in Linda Lee Craftsy Class) for the neck and armholes.  The only “challenge” was the zipper.  I finally figured out I had to put the binding on—then put the zipper in—and then turn the binding down and finish!

 If anyone wants more details, just ask!  As usual, I fully documented it in case I remake!

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Haute Summer Sewing – Blouse Jacket Burda 4/2016 126

I love this Burda Style jacket that Eileen recently made.  It is on trend with the cape-like sleeve!  And as Eileen pointed out, it's great for keeping the chill off in air conditioned buildings.  This rayon challis is sold out but here are some substitutes here, here, here, here, herehere and here.  Thank you Eileen for sharing your beautiful new jacket!  

Burda Style 04/2016 #126 

Burda magazine April 2016 has a great pattern for a summer air conditioning cover up that you can dress up or down.  Pattern 126 is described as a relaxed jacket with XL wing sleeves and a cut on shawl collar perfect for cooler days or evenings.  The sleeves flutter in the breeze and it is a very fun garment to wear. 

The July issue of Burda magazine also uses the blouse jacket in a styling section for one top with four looks.  Look for it!  

The fabric used is a rayon crepe (sold out) from Sew Much Fabric.  The fabric can be hand washed in cool water and a mild detergent.   Air dry and use a silk setting to press.  Knit stay tape was fused in the armhole and collar seamlines to prevent the soft fabric from stretching out of shape.   The armhole is finished with a topstitched bias binding before the side seam is sewn.  This was a great technique in the instructions that I had not used before.  You can finish the armhole edge and alter your side seams if needed without having to rip out the bias binding.  Very clever technique.  The sleeves are two half circles that are stitched on last.  The sleeve hems are finished with a narrow machine hem. 

 I will be demonstrating the hem technique at the October 3, 2016 meeting.  Join me at our October 3, 2016 meeting and I will be sharing two sewing techniques: a French seam and narrow machine hem. 

This blouse jacket dresses up or down for work or play.  A sleeveless dress is in progress with the coordinating blue rayon from Sew Much Fabric.  I hope to have it finished to share at our October meeting.  

Thursday, July 07, 2016

Animal Print T-Shirt

What a great addition to Carla's closet-a great fitting animal print T-shirt!  Animal Print is like a neutral. It plays nicely with other colors and prints.  This fabric is sold out but you can find other knits here.  Thank you Carla for sharing your method of coping a favorite T-shirt!

I’ve been trying to make more knit tops that have ready to wear finishes.  I’m a regular Chico’s shopper and have lots of their tops.  I had one that I especially liked.  I laid it on top of some tracing paper and traced the front and back.  The sleeves were part of the front and back.  After tracing the pieces, I made sure the center front and center back were straight as they were to be cut on fold.  I made sure the sides were the same on the front and back so they would match.  
I took a Craftsy class—Sewing Fashion Knits by Linda Lee.  This is a great class and I highly recommend it.  
It does a great job teaching a traditional binding and a ready-to-wear binding.  In my Chico copy, I used the ready-to-wear binding.
It recommends using a product she sells on her website called Fusi-Web to secure the hem on the sleeves and the bottom.  This is a double sided fusible and creates a temporary bond.  Then hemming with a cover stitch machine is a snap.
It recommends using a product she sells on her website called Fusible Hem Tape.  I used this to stabilize the shoulder seams.
This top is a perfect replica of the Chico’s top.  I used a two-way stretch I bought from Roz a while back!  Perfect use for it!  And it was amazingly easy!