Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Burda Style 03/2013

 All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

This is great for summer daywear
or an evening out made in silk.
halterneck dress #114

Perfect outfit for lounging or a spring break vacation.
shirt blouse #124
shorts #126

The cardigan does double duty for work or causal wear.
The skirt is all about fun times!
cardigan #107
skirt #121

I love a fitted blazer and the ankle length slim pants
are on point for Spring 2013.
jacket #102
pencil trousers #104

Plus Size
Maxi Dress!
dress #144

Faux wrap skirt
skirt #145
To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Eileen's Pattern Review: 
Burda 04/2012/139A (Plus Sizes) or Burda 01/2013/123A (Regular Sizes)

Description: MISSES' TOP:  Very loose-fitting top with a cowl neckline. 

Pattern Sizing: I found this pattern in two Burda Style magazines in two size combinations: Burda 04/2012/139A (Plus Sizes) or Burda 01/2013/123A (Regular Sizes).  I made the Plus Size 46 and had to adjust the back neckline.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.  In Burda magazines you get to see line drawings and beautifully styled garments.   

Were the instructions easy to follow? This is a one dot pattern which in Burda terms is “quick and easy, great for beginners.” The instructions were easy to follow and clear.  The instruction to iron stay tape to the shoulder seam edges, back neck edge and armhole edges are most important.  However, the Vilene Stay Tape they recommend is not sold in the United States so I substituted Knit Stay Tape sold by Emma Seabrooke.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the drape of cowl neckline and I was looking for a jumpstart to my sewing mojo for spring.  I wanted a quick, cute top to wear on the weekends with pants or a maxi skirt. 

Fabric Used: Bronze Tie Dye knit from Sew Much Fabric.  This project can be made in a day (from tracing the pattern to finishing the top).  I had this cut out for several months and in cleaning my sewing room I found the pieces and put it together in two hours. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I have small shoulders and I found the neckline very wide.  To take in the width I made a box pleat at the center back.  There is a small piece of fabric for the facing strip for the back neck edge (1 5/8 by 10 inches) that I overlooked when cutting out the other pieces (a front and back) and I threw the scraps away.  I solved the back facing problem by using a piece of white interlock knit.  (See the beauty of having a fabric collection.)  The seams were surged together to finish the seams which was not in the instructions.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I highly recommend this pattern if you would like a quick and stylish cowl neck knit top.  You can easily lengthen this pattern and make a dress or tunic to wear with leggings or tights and boots.   

Eileen, I love your weekend glam outfit!  Thanks for the pattern review!

Monday, February 18, 2013

Eileen's Pattern Review 
Vogue 1274

Photo Credit Ann of Youtique Bridal

Description: MISSES' TOP:  Very loose-fitting top has collar, low armholes, asymmetrical button closing and three-quarter length sleeves with button drape. Narrow hem. B: back-buttoned drape. Front, back and sleeves extend into drapes.
Pattern Sizing: Combinations: Y(XSmall-Small-Medium), ZZ(Large-XLarge-XXLarge)  I made the Large, Version A.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes I think so.  I used larger buttons than were called for on the pattern envelope.  The buttons were found at the International Quilt Festival at Dusty’s Vintage Buttons and Fabrics.  They were vintage buttons and a perfect match for the rose silk dupionni from Sew Much Fabric.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were very easy to follow and very clear. Just remember to read them!  The pattern instructions suggest using French seams (which I used) but double check that your first seam sewn is ¼ inch from the seamline.  I missed that on the shoulder seams, but there was enough ease in the pattern that it all worked out.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the drape of the sleeves and hemline and the asymmetrical closing.  I also liked the idea of turning this pattern into holiday wear by using silk dupionni. 

Fabric Used:  Rose Silk Dupionni from Sew Much Fabric.  This project was my attempt at sewing up stash fabric, and making something for holiday wear.  I had purchased this silk some time ago and never finished the top and skirt I had originally planned.  After working with the layout that requires 60 inch fabric and this silk is 45 inches wide I went back for yet another one yard purchase from Roz.  (All said I think I bought 3 yards in 3 separate visits, 1 yard at a time.) When you shop with one supplier the color match is still the same even if it is in your collection for “a while.” The dupionni was underlined with silk organza. (I can’t help underlining as it is part of my sewing lexicon now.) Underlining the dupionni made it more stable to work with and gave me a surface to sew the hem to. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Note to self is the right and left facings ARE NOT THE SAME. Cut the pieces out on a single layer of fabric and you won’t make my mistake.  I kept wondering why the right side did not lay as nicely as the left and after I remade the right side, I checked the directions (and surprise it was all right there.)  I also found that the collar was too big for the neck circumference so I had to reduce the collar as well. (This was also a result of my sewing directly on my seamlines instead of ¼ inch away BEFORE trimming.) This is a loose fitting pattern and not too big in the shoulder which is slightly surprising based upon the pattern pictures.  The draped hemline is also very flattering for a person with hips as it draws the eye away from your hips.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I highly recommend this pattern and hope to make View B in linen. 

Styling Tips: Doesn’t the Mark Jacobs clutch just look great with the rose silk dupionni? A little bit of sparkle is never out of place in weekend glam dressing for a Sewing Fashionista. 

Eileen, this is gorgeous and thank you!  I also like it in white as pictured on the pattern envelope.  Use silk dupioni in Pristine White or White Linen.

Friday, February 08, 2013

Burda Style Spring/Summer 2013 
Plus Size Issue

All Style at a Glance

Line Drawings

dress #404
For weekend Natural Linen

Great outfit for hanging out at the movies.
long shirt #415
pants #418

Classic shirt with the updated peplum.
shirt #420
pencil skirt 406B

This relaxed fit T-shirt would look great with jeans
or tucked into a pencil skirt.
shirt #433

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

Thursday, February 07, 2013

Pattern Review: Burda Style 
10/2012 #118A

Prewash: Cold water /delicate cycle
Dry on perma press
There was no shrinkage.

Notions: Gutermann thread, Bosal Sheer Fusible Tricot

Alterations: I did a 1" full bust adjustment

Construction Details:  I didn't use a zipper and eliminated the neckline facing
 because it caused the neck edge to be too thick.  Instead I fused a 5/8"
wide strip of interfacing along the neckline.

Fold the edge to the inside and clip close to the shoulder
seam then topstitch in place.



So if you need a dress for a luncheon and an
afternoon wedding this month (like I do) I think this
pattern is a great option.
1) This dress goes together fast. Even faster if you use a knit.
  2) I like that it has long sleeves.  The weather can be
all over the place this time of year.
3) Love the side ruching and cowl neckline which is on trend.
This fabric also comes in Amber.