Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Burda Style Magazine
August 2012
(8/1/12-ETA this issue is now sold out)

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawing

Cocktails anyone?  
Notice the shoulder detail.
Make a similar look using Black Metallic Jacquard Brocade 
and Sequin-Black for the shoulders.
Dress #120

Great fashion for early fall sewing.  
The sleeveless pullover only takes 7/8 of a yard. 
Sleeveless Pullover #116
Skirt #112

Make this knit top a part of your weekend glam!
Top #130

Love the retro look of this jacket. 
The pants have a topstitched crease.
Blouson Jacket #118
Pants #139

Create a waistline with a belt.
Belt #162
Belt #161

Plus Size
Make this in silk for the office.
Make this in a light weight knit for the weekend.
Blouse #147

Petersham ribbons on center front with
a chiffon band at the hem. Gorgeous!
Dress #144

To purchase, go to www.smfabric.com

Thursday, July 12, 2012

My Classic Skirt

After a couple of floral fun skirts, I needed to make a basic, appropriate skirt.  My current black skirt is low calf length so I wanted to make a shorter black skirt.  I checked patterns looking for something classic to go with many blouses and shirts.  I found Simplicity 7962 copyright 1987.

I realized it would be too long.  I marked the length
of each piece in thirds giving me two places to shorten
 it and keep the flair.

Peggy came over to check the muslin fit and made adjustments to the right back.  She drew the straight of the grain on those pieces.  We also decided I needed to shorten it more and chose a point above the flair to take out 2 more inches.  Then I laid out the pieces again to make the adjustments more permanent.

I chose the Bankers Grey Menswear Wool (now sold out) I found at Sew Much Fabric.  This fabric has a marvelous drape and is very easy to work with.  It looks black but is actually a very dark charcoal grey.  There is a very fine thread line in the fabric.

Because of the flair, hemming was tedious.  I needed to trim the
allowance down to 1 inch so that there would not be bulk.

The sheer burnout overshirt
is much warmer than it looks.
It is nice to wear it in over
air-conditioned places.
The tank top is pink linen
in Butterick 5354

What a great addition to your wardrobe. You will wear this a lot.  This would also look great in the Black Menswear Wool.
Thanks for the review!

Tuesday, July 03, 2012

Pattern Review: 
Vogue 1141 (knit top) and 
Burda Style 03-2012 #128 (twist skirt)

Vogue 1141

View B

Burda Style 03-2011 #128

Red Jersey Knit
92% Rayon 8% Spandex

Marigold Floral Print
100% Italian Cotton

The summer heat and humidity require fabrics and fashion that will keep you cool.
You will also need fabrics that can be washed and dried.  Both of these fabrics fit the criteria and were prewashed.  
Each fabric shrunk about 1" in length.

The only notion the knit top needed was Gutermann thread.

I needed a full bust adjustment on the knit top.  I added 3/4" in width (for a total of 1-1/2") and 1" in length.  This allows for 2" of negative ease.  In other words, the finished measurement is 2" less than my actual measurement.  I can do this because of the amount of stretch (8% Spandex) this fabric has.  

I didn't need any alterations on the skirt.

The knit top goes together very quickly.  
It has nice details like pleats and side seam gathers.
The neckline has binding to finish the edge.  

The design feature of the skirt is the "twist" in the front.  The success of this skirt really relies on the
selection of fabric.  Soft and light fabrics like cotton lawn or silk crepe de chine will work and eliminate any bulk at the "twist".  

I made a lining pattern for the skirt front.
Fold back the front extension and draw a line from the top right corner down to the hem.  You can make the lining A-line like I did or make it straight.

Lining Front

Front view

Back view
(photo credits CG)

This skirt would also look great in computer blues 
or make the top and the skirt in the maraschino cherry tie dye knit.