Monday, August 23, 2010

New Fabrics for August 2010

Black/Ivory/Red Box Plaid
97% Wool 3% Spandex
This wool blend is on trend for Fall 2010 with the color combination of black/ivory/red (the red is a blue-red).  The hand is beefy but with a nice drape.  The plaid measures 2-1/4 by 2-5/8.  Perfect for office attire and classic sportswear.

Sewl Mates
Sku# S10126051
Red Silk Dupioni
100% Silk
Black Crinkle
100% Polyester

Construction in Progress
Armo Weft Interfacing
Gutermann Thread 021, 430, 010
Buttons: Faux Black Leather  7/8"  $.80
Marbled Garnet  7/8"  $2.50
Rayon Hem Tape Bankers Grey
Rayon Lining Grey

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 07/2010 #127

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5459, 5534, McCalls 5936, 6038, Simplicity 2315, 2758, Vogue 8630, 8667

Sewing Tip: Use a single fold layout to accurately match the plaids.

Bankers Grey Menswear Wool
100% Tropical Weight Wool
This is gorgeous tropical weight wool from Italy.  The color is the darkest grey-one shade short of black.  Light weight with good drape, make pants, skirts, jackets or dresses.

Sewl Mate
(see above)

Construction in Progress
Rayon Lining Black
Rayon Hem Tape Black
Buttons: Black/Gold Paradise  1-1/8"  $2.75
Black Starfish  1-1/2"  $2.50

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 08/2010 # 107

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5259, 5535, McCalls 5537, 6162, Simplicity 2337, 2455, Vogue 1166, 8672

Sewing Tip:  Use a size 12 universal needle.

Mulberry/Bronze Brocade
This beautiful brocade from Tuleh would be a great addition to your wardrobe.  This is dress weight with a soft drape.  The brocade is woven with a matte sheen.  The colorway is mulberry (a greyed purple) and bronze.  Make a fun weekend jacket, a sheath dress for work or a lovely outfit for an evening out on the town.

Sewl Mate
Summer Brown Tropical Wool
100% Wool

Construction in Progress
Armo Weft Interfacing
Buttons: Gold Treble  2"  $3.50
Gold Toggle  1-1/2" $3.00
Ykk Invisible Zipper 867
Rayon Hem Tape Whiskey

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 08/2010 # 102B

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5427, 5453, McCalls 5186, 5759, Simplicity 2311, 2728, Vogue 1182, 8640

Sewing Tip:  Use the with nap layout.

Navy Wool
100% Wool Super 100
Classic Navy-Timeless Wool-Fabulous Price!  This is the excellent quality super 100 wool from Italy.  The color is a true navy.  For this quality and price you will want a dress, pants, jacket and skirts.

Sewl Mate
Ivory Silk Shantung
100% Silk

Construction in Progress
Rayon Lining Navy
Buttons: Pearl/Navy  1-1/16" $4.00
Navy Diamond Squared  1-1/16"  $3.75
Rayon Hem Tape Navy

Sweet Inspiration
Burda Style 08/2010 #108E

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5391, 5395, McCalls 5817, 6028, Simplicity 2446, 2868, Vogue 1063, 1123
Sewing Tip:  Be sure to use a press cloth while ironing to prevent any shine. 

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Burda Style 08/2010

All Styles at a Glance

Line Drawings

This issue is the first look at Fall 2010.  

Trench Style Jacket

Three-Quarter Sleeves

Short, Fitted Jacket

This leather skirt would also look great in denim or wool.

Skinny Pants

Cocktails a-la Jackie O


Plus Sizes
This is great for summer and then into fall under sweaters and jackets.

Asymmetrical Pleats
To purchase, go to

Sunday, August 01, 2010

Pattern Review Burda Style 03/2010 #107

Burda 03/2010

Red Roses and Khaki Leaf Print

Prewash: Cold water/perma press cycle and dry on perma press.  There was no shrinkage.  

NotionsGutermann thread, 18" Ykk invisible zipper, boning, rayon seam binding, grosgrain ribbon, lining

Alterations: The bodice required my normal FBA (full bust adjustment).  I added 1" for the full bust and 5/8" to the under bust seam to put it in its proper location.  To do this I first matched the alteration lines on both the side bust and center bust pattern pieces. 

Draw a second line 1" above the bottom seam line.

Slice and spread the patterns, true the seam allowances.

I also shortened the skirt 1-1/2" and added shoulder straps.

Construction Details: I added to the midriff a 7/8" black with white polka dot grosgrain ribbon from my Mom's stash.  To get a good center point, fold the ribbon at the center point and pin.

Stitch the fold in place.

Sew the ribbon in place, stopping at the center seam on both the left and right

Sew the upper bodice to the lower bodice again stopping at the center seam both left and right.

I added boning to the lining at the side seams and back seams

and seam binding on the hem.

Midriff and Pockets

Side View

Back View

Front View

Conclusion: This is a great patten and on point with the current fashion trend of side pockets.  I'm making this again in a silk dupioni.