Wednesday, April 28, 2010

More Fabrics for April 2010

Black Stretch Linen
60% Linen 38% Cotton 2% Elastine
Designer-Ann Taylor

White Stretch Linen
60% Linen 38% Cotton 2% Elastine
Designer-Ann Taylor
Here are two summer classics-linen and black and white.  Both linen blends have good crosswise stretch and no lengthwise stretch.  Great for dresses, tunics, jackets, skirts and shorts.

Sewl Mates
Sand Tweed
52% Linen 40% Cotton 8% Nylon

Global Stripe
58% Rayon 32% Wool 10% Nylon

Construction in Progress
Black Sheer Fusible Tricot Interfacing
YKK Invisible Zipper #580
Gutermann thread #010
Buttons: Tortoise 7/8" $3.50
Spotlights 1-1/8" $2.00

White Sheer Fusible Tricot Interfacing
Gutermann thread #020
YKK Invisible Zipper #501
Buttons: Snow Cap 1" $4.30
Cotton Fluff 7/8" $7.00

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 4/2010 #126B

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5332, 5455, McCalls 5429, 6116, Simplicity 2404, 2477, Vogue 1157, 1182

Sewing Tip: You can also use a flesh colored lining like Champagne for the white linen.

Black Eyelet
100% Cotton
Sophisticated but sweet this dress weight embroidered eyelet is a gorgeous addition to your summer wardrobe.  Make an A-line skirt, tunic, or sheath dress.

Sewl Mates

Construction in Progress
Gutermann thread #010
Button: Crater 5/8" $4.00, 1" $4.90
YKK Invisible Zipper #580

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 4/2010 #111B

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5218, 5328, McCalls 5622, 6111, Simplicity 2359, 2448, Vogue 8184, 8640

Sewing Tip: Use organza or batiste for interfacing.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Pattern Review Vogue 8623

 Sewing Fashionista Monica is looking good while sporting Vogue 8623.  Here is her review.

100% Silk

 To pretreat the silk dupioni and the tweed, I used my professional steamer and a padded sewing table.  I covered the fabric with a sheet and steamed.  Afterwards, I used a clothes drying rack and allowed the fabric to dry overnight.
 For the dress, I used an old Butterick Easy Sew Pattern (previously altered), muslin for underlining to give more body, bemberg lining, invisible zipper, thread, rayon hem tape.
For the jacket, interfacing, bemberg lining, snaps and buttons.  (I had the square chrome mirror buttons in my "collection" already.)

Time to put it together
The dress pattern is one that I have owned for a number of years.  It has been previously altered for my hips so I either use the muslin that I made as the pattern or the tissue pattern which is also altered.  On practically all of my patterns, I cut the pattern back, stopping short of the seam allowance to give extra length for hips.  I prefer to buy a larger size pattern and trim down so I almost always have to alter the shoulders.  
Because of the style of the jacket, the only alterations I did was to adjust the sleeve for the fullness of my arms.
Whenever I'm sewing I always cut out fabrics, linings, underlinings at the same time.  I put transfers on the underlining and lining to mark darts and other points that must match.  As I put the garment together, the transfers on the underlining are used to identify my darts and other markings for the fabric.

Personal Experience
The silk dupioni and the tweed were very easy to sew.  The fabrics are elegant and beautiful so they don't require any patterns with extra flair.  Whenever I have fabrics like this, I always use simple patterns.  I didn't have any problems with either pattern.  However, the jacket is fastened with snaps and the buttons are just trim.  There was a small pattern in the tweed so I made sure to match although it was difficult to distinguish the areas that didn't quite match up.
Because of the texture of the fabric and the pleats in the jacket, I had to trim the seams to reduce the bulkiness in the back yoke.  It worked out ok but next time I use this fabric, I will make a jacket without any inserts or extra seams.  

Thanks Monica!  Fabulous as always!

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

New Fabrics for April 2010

Raspberry Linen
60% Linen 38% Cotton 2% Elastine
Designer-Ann Taylor

Natural Linen
60% Linen 38% Cotton 2% Elastine
Designer-Ann Taylor
It wouldn't be summer without linen in your wardrobe.  This raspberry and natural linen blend has good crosswise stretch and no lengthwise stretch.  Great for dresses, tunics, jackets, skirts and shorts.

Sewl Mates
Spring-Time Cotton Sateen
97% Cotton 3% Spandex

White Seersucker
100% Cotton

Construction in Progress
Rayon Lining-Fucshia
Buttons: Mai Tai   7/8" $6.50,   1-1/8" $7.50
Gutermann Thread #320
Ykk Invisible Zipper #S197
Rayon Hem Tape-Imperial

Ykk Invisible Zipper #884
Rayon Hem Tape-Nude Beige
Buttons: Buff   7/8"   $2.75
Gutermann Thread #513

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 4/2010 #139
Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5453, 5469, McCalls 5391, 5847, Simplicity 2370, 2372, Vogue 1100, 8594
Sewing Tip: For a sporty look, use a flat fell seam finish.

Cream/Mocha Animal Print
100% Rayon Jersey
Designer-Nicole Miller
This jersey is so elegant for summer.  An understated animal print in cream, mocha, oyster this has great crosswise stretch and slight lengthwise stretch.  The overall hand is soft and drapey with a soft sheen.  Wrap dresses, tops with cowl neck and jumpsuits with wide legs are perfect for this fabric.

Sewl Mate
See Natural linen above

Construction in Progress
Gutermann Thread #021

Sweet Inspiration

Burda Style 3/2010 #118A

Pattern Suggestions: Butterick 5001, 5454, McCalls 6070, 6078, Simplicity 2369, 2947, Vogue 1173, 8646
Sewing Tip: This jersey has a lovely sheen.  Be sure to buy the "with nap" yardage and use the "with nap" pattern layout.

Thursday, April 08, 2010

Pattern Review Vogue 1025 Twice

Anne Klein Blue Denim
100% Cotton

Electric Violet Dot
100% Cotton

Prewash: Both fabrics were machine washed in cold water on the cotton cylcle and dried on perma press.  They each shrunk 3-4 inches in length.  I'll dry clean them in the future to maintain the intensity of the colors.

Alterations:  The photo on the pattern appears that the skirt of the dress sits on the natural wasitline.  It is actually 1-3/4" above the waist like a high waist skirt.  I like high waist skirts but if you don't, you may want to skip this pattern or do some pattern modifications.  Where I always have to make adjustments is in the bust area.  I used a size 12 for the bodice because the finished measurements gave enough width, but I still needed length.  Since the bust point was in the correct area, I drew a horizontal line under the bust point 

and a vertical line through the large dot of the outer tuck.  

  I slid that section down 1-1/4" and redrew the tucks at the seam line.  

The ease of the skirt for a size 12 was 5-1/2" which was more than I wanted so I dropped down to a size 8 and tapered back to a size 12 above the waistline.  The last alteration was shortening the skirt 3".  This was done in two places above the hemline because the hem is tapered.  

Construction:  Nothing tricky here just straight forward sewing.  
A couple steps I would add
-interface the zipper area and kick pleat

-understitch the neckline and armhole


Back View

Conclusion:  Every wardrobe should have a LDD-little denim dress.  I actually made this last fall and pulled the pattern out again for a quick Easter dress using the Electric violet cotton.  This would also make a great cocktail dress using a light weight brocade like this grey/cream brocade.