Wednesday, March 26, 2008

BWOF 1/2008 issue, style # 109

Fabric: 60"
100% Black wool crepe
17.00

Prewash: Dry Clean

Notions: universal needle size 12, thread, Armo Weft interfacing, stay tape, 9" invisible zipper, rayon hem tape

Alterations: I traced a size 40 and made a muslin without any alterations to check the fit. The waist was 1" too large in the back but everything else (even the length) was good. That was all of the fit changes. I made one design change because I was using a dressier fabric. I cut the front on the fold eliminating the fly front and moved the zipper to the left side.

Construction Details: Burda rates the difficulty of the patterns with dots 1-4. This is a 3 dot pattern which stands for intermediate difficulty, for advance learners. I would say this is a fair assessment, but if you take your time and mark the placement for the pockets carefully (ask me how I know) you should have no problems.
Topstitching is another feature of this skirt. Wool crepe can pucker while topstitching if you don't stabilize the area. I cut 3/4" wide strips of Armo Weft and fused to the center front and center back seam allowances. I used red thread with a 3.5 stitch length.
The waistband is contoured so I stabilized the band area joining the skirt and at the waist with stay tape.
For fun, I lined the skirt in red. A little "Count Dracula" huh? LOL!

Finished product




I like this pattern for its feminine shape. The pockets are a little tricky but the results have an upscale look. I would like to make this again with the fly front using a linen or cotton twill.

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