Sunday, March 30, 2008

Pattern Reviews with Patty

Patty has been b-u-s-y! She has produced a mini wardrobe. She was so kind to invite us over for a photo shoot.

OK, here we go....

McCalls 5529Patty made this twice. She is a believer in TNT patterns. If it fits and the style is attractive, make it again! This pattern met those requirements.

Fabric: 51"
100% Cotton Double Knit
(sold out- see entry 11/16/07)

Construction Details: Patty didn't use any interfacing because she felt the fabric was heavy enough. She pinked the seams to reduce bulk, finished the hem with a serged edge and used snaps for the front closure.

Now it's the embroidery and trim that really makes this jacket special.

Patty used her Bernina Artista 640 to do the embroidery
but the paisley design is a free download from Creative Machine Embroidery. Patty used a size 75/11 embroidery needle, a mid weight cut away stabilizer and Robison-Anton thread in silver and turquoise for the paisleys.

The next jacket from this pattern is made with the red/white floral fabrics made for Anna Sui (see entry 1/17/08).

Fabric: 45"
50% Linen 50% Cotton
for the body of the jacket
100% Cotton Lawn
for the collar

This was constructed using the same techniques as the red knit jacket. A red gross grain ribbon was added for the belt.
Two jackets-two different looks-Love it!

Vogue 8229 & Simplicity 7513
Fabric: 45"
100% Cotton Lawn
Designer--Anna Sui

Construction Details: Patty added the ruffle from Vogue 8229 to the Simplicity 7513.
She used 1/4" non-roll elastic for the waist
and used a 3 thread overlock to serge the flounce onto the skirt as well as to finish the hem.

Butterick 3125 (out of print)

Now this is where Patty really works her wardrobe skills!

Fabric: 45"
100% Cotton Lawn
Designer--Anna Sui

She made a blouse to match her skirt!

Construction Details: The fabric is very light so Patty self-lined the collar. This gives a nice clean finish at the collar's edge.
She used a 1/4 non-roll elastic for the sleeve and turned the hem up twice and hand picked the edge.

Since we already mentioned Vogue 8229, Patty thought she would share the dress from that pattern.
This was a rayon crinkle fabric we had two summers ago. It really turned out lovely.

At Patty and Davey's house there is laughter, good conversation and great food.
Thanks Patty and Davey for a wonderful afternoon!

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Husbands can get in the game, too!

Well, I have lots to report from my photo shoot with Patty.
First I have to show you what her husband made.

Davey made this lovely table cloth.

They selected the different fabrics and trim.
Davey decided on the design, the placement of the different fabrics, and how to put it all together.

Finishing touches
It is really beautiful.
Cynthia and I tip our hats to you Davey, for a job well done!

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

BWOF 1/2008 issue, style # 109

Fabric: 60"
100% Black wool crepe

Prewash: Dry Clean

Notions: universal needle size 12, thread, Armo Weft interfacing, stay tape, 9" invisible zipper, rayon hem tape

Alterations: I traced a size 40 and made a muslin without any alterations to check the fit. The waist was 1" too large in the back but everything else (even the length) was good. That was all of the fit changes. I made one design change because I was using a dressier fabric. I cut the front on the fold eliminating the fly front and moved the zipper to the left side.

Construction Details: Burda rates the difficulty of the patterns with dots 1-4. This is a 3 dot pattern which stands for intermediate difficulty, for advance learners. I would say this is a fair assessment, but if you take your time and mark the placement for the pockets carefully (ask me how I know) you should have no problems.
Topstitching is another feature of this skirt. Wool crepe can pucker while topstitching if you don't stabilize the area. I cut 3/4" wide strips of Armo Weft and fused to the center front and center back seam allowances. I used red thread with a 3.5 stitch length.
The waistband is contoured so I stabilized the band area joining the skirt and at the waist with stay tape.
For fun, I lined the skirt in red. A little "Count Dracula" huh? LOL!

Finished product

I like this pattern for its feminine shape. The pockets are a little tricky but the results have an upscale look. I would like to make this again with the fly front using a linen or cotton twill.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Fashion Info You Need to Know No.1

I thought I would share some fashion information to keep all my sewing fashionistas on top of their game. I read this tip in Lucky Magazine about a year ago, and have used it often. You know those deodorant "stripes" you get on your clothing while getting dressed? Take an old pair of panty hose, ball it up like a dish rag and rub on the "stripes". Like magic the "stripes" disappear. This little trick has really helped me out of some major fashion faux pas!

Sunday, March 09, 2008

Fabrics for March 2008

More Knits! All three of the knits are matte jerseys with wonderful stretch and recovery lengthwise and crosswise. Very good drape with a smooth surface, these knits are perfect for a
wrap dress, A-line skirt, or T-shirt.

94% Polyester 6% Spandex
Designer--Anne Klein

Brown/Cream/Red/Black DotsPeacock Blue/Khaki Paisley Pinwheel
Turquoise/Olive Border Print
Border is on both sides

Sewl MatesCream Pique
100% Cotton

Khaki Sateen
97"Cotton 3% Lycra

Turquoise Dupioni
100% Silk

Construction in ProgressStarting from the top going clockwise-Fusi-Knit interfacing, clear elastic,
Gutermann thread 637, 675, 030

Sweet Inspiration

Pattern Suggestions: Vogue 1027, 8422, McCalls 5468, 5579, 5484, Butterick 5174, 5101, Simplicity 4074, 3800

Sewing Tip: All knits are not created equal. Some have more stretch than others. Be sure your knit is the right knit for the pattern. Read the fabric suggestions and follow them closely. You can also use the stretch guide found on the back of your pattern envelope.

Thursday, March 06, 2008

BWOF 3/2008
All styles at a glance!
Line drawings
Great Jacket
This would look good in a light weight cotton or rayon.
This would make up nice in a knit.
This issue features wedding apparel based on outfits worn by movie stars.
Plus size fashions!


Monday, March 03, 2008

80% Linen 20% Rayon
12.00Prewash: Wash cold on the gentle cycle; Dry on the perma press cycle

Notions: Thread, 22" invisible zipper, stay tape, buttons, hooks & eyes, lining, rayon hem tape

Alterations: I had to do my standard FBA. I also extended the waist in the front 1/4" by slashing and spreading. The front wraps around the waist to the back. I extended the back 1".The full skirt was a little too retro for me which is why I substituted a straight skirt from Butterick 6706.

Construction Details: This pattern is rated easy. I think it is easy for an experienced sewer but not so much for a beginner. The instructions are good but of course I added a few things. I used stay tape at the armhole and the neckline. I shortened the stay tape 1" at the armhole and 1/2" at the neckline to ease in the extra fullness. As I stated above, the bodice front wraps around to the back . I substituted the hooks for 3 flat buttons.
The back wraps to the front, crosses and ties in the back. I don't like ties. I shortened the
ties to meet in the back (plus an additional 1 1/4" for lap over), added 2 pleats (just eyeball them), a facing and hook and eyes.
The bodice is self lined. I used a cotton broadcloth left over from my Mom's stash for the skirt.

Conclusion: This pattern goes together fast. I wore this dress to an afternoon wedding last summer, but if you use a dressier brocade it could definitely be worn for evening.